SuperHome Database

Manchester, Salford, Hersey Street

House Summary

Owner(s):
Eric Fewster
House Type:
Victorian mid-terrace c.1900
Carbon saving:
69%
Total invested:
£20,000

Measures installed:

  • Ceiling insulation
  • Condensing boiler
  • Double Glazing
  • Floor Insulation
  • Internal Wall Insulation
  • Loft Insulation
  • Low Energy Lighting
  • Mechanical Ventilation Heat Recovery
  • Water Saving Devices
  • Wood Stove

  • snow_rooftop
  • Manchester, Salford SH

Upcoming events

Sep
27
Date:
Saturday 27th September 2014

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Sep
28
Date:
Sunday 28th September 2014

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What visitors are saying

"Issues of design of insulation, windows and heat recovery were explained in great detail. Well worth the visit."

"An excellent afternoon being shown round... provided a good opportunity to find out how the property was refurbished."

"This is so much better than reading about energy saving and seeing examples on your laptop. Also my home is a mid terrace and it was great to be able to see the potential..."

"Visit was great. Many thanks for the guided tour and information as well as answering questions and discussion!"

"Excellent visit - really enjoyed and learned a lot. Many thanks."

"I am currently studying building surveying at University and Eric was kind enough to show me and a friend round his house for help with our dissertations, can honestly say we both learnt a lot more than we do in lectures, definitely worth a visit! Thanks a lot for your help."

Personal story:

I came to Salford because I needed to buy a place of my own, and it was one of the areas which had houses for sale that I could afford. Manchester also had an airport which was important for my overseas work assignments.

Motivations:

I decided to do the refurb on the house for several reasons. While I suppose I am fairly environmentally-minded, I guess a large part of why I did the refurb was that the house was damp and dark when I bought it, and parts of the house (e.g. the bathroom) were freezing in cold weather, and I decided that I didn’t want to live in a place like that. In any case, I had to do a certain amount of things anyway since the house was in a fairly bad state (e.g. window frames were rotten), so I found that this was a good time to try to make it better while I was at it. The only thing was that I didn’t know much about energy efficiency or in what order to do things, so I spent some cash on a few books and read up about what I should do, after which I made a do-list and decided roughly in what order things should be done.

Property background:

The house is a mid-terrace, that was not well looked after. There was a tenant in the property prior to my arrival, but the house was damp and dark, with daily condensation on the single-glazed windows that were sitting in rotting frames, and slugs on the bread board in the morning.

Key changes made:

3 things:

- Insulation – the house was haemorrhaging heat, and after the insulation went in, it took very little time for the air to warm up in the house.

- Air tightness – although I would use membranes and tapes properly if I did it again, for sure the house became more airtight after I worked on it. I used expanding foam to plug all the nooks and crannies I could find, and although it’s not a good airtightness strategy, I’m sure that it has improved comfort levels as a result.

- Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery – this keeps the house at a comfortable 40-60% relative humidity, which keeps any mould at bay, although at times the humidity does drop below 40% in winter (the lowest fan speed is just a bit too fast for my house). The ventilation means that odours are taken care of, and that the bathroom dries up within a very short time after taking a shower or bath. It also means that I don’t have to open any windows to ventilate, saving energy.

Measures installed in detail:

  • Polyisocyanurate (Kingspan) 120mm thick friction-fitted to bathroom ceiling, u-value 0.321 W/m2K
  • Polyisocyanurate (Kingspan) 100mm thick friction-fitted to back door bay ceiling, u-value 0.332 W/m2K
  • Remeha condensing boiler, new radiators with TRVs
  • New windows & doors: uPVC, double-glazed, 28mm gap, argon-filled, u-value of whole window averaging 2.2 W/m2K (glazing u-value 1.5 W/m2K)
  • Polyisocyanurate (Kingspan) 70mm thick friction-fitted in studwork for internal wall insulation, u-value 0.37 W/m2K
  • Mineral wool 270mm thick in loft space, u-value 0.149 W/m2K
  • Polyisocyanurate (Kingspan) 100mm thick friction-fitted between joists (suspended floor insulation), u-value 0.321 W/m2K
  • MVHR installed (Xpelair Xcell-300), 82 m3/hour measured flow rate at lowest fan speed possible, giving 0.45 air changes per hour
  • Low energy CFLs and LEDs in most light fittings
  • Wood-burning stove (Løvenholm 5kW) installed in one of ground floor chimney breasts
  • Water saving devices include; Ifö sink, toilet & bath which are designed to save water by design (toilet flush 2 or 4 litres)
  • Appliances: new energy-efficient washing machine, fridge, freezer
  • Damp course: injected damp course on the whole ground floor
  • Crawl space damp addressed by 4.5 tonnes of MOT (gravel mix) onto muddy floor, followed by a thick polythene sheeting to reduce evaporation
  • Airtightness: inadequately addressed. Vapour-impermeable polythene sheets used on insulated internal walls and bathroom ceiling, but not adequately taped or sealed. No membrane on ground floor – here I only relied on expanding foam. No membrane used on bedroom ceilings – here I used expanding foam to seal up between plasterboards and wire penetrations via the loft space
Benefits of work carried out:

The main improvements have been a reduction in humidity, a warmer house and better air quality. I had an injected damp course done on the whole ground floor, but what made most difference to the humidity (measured by how much condensation was on the windows) was dealing with the evaporation of water from muddy ground below the ground floor (through putting a type of gravel down, covered with plastic) – this cleared up the condensation overnight. In addition to that, I draught-proofed the whole ground floor to prevent air leaking from the crawl space into the living areas. Humidity from other sources (e.g. bathroom, breathing, cooking) is now also kept in check also by the ventilation system that extracts moist stale air and replenishes with air from outside. The humidity in the house now averages between 40 and 60% and I find that in winter when temperatures outside are lower, the system gets more efficient at reducing humidity in the house compared to summer. Regarding temperature, the house is much quicker to heat up than before due to the wall & floor insulation and draught-proofing – meaning I don’t spend much on gas.

Favourite feature:

I have three favourite parts rather than just one, since I know that these aspects go together to be effective: insulation, draught-proofing and ventilation.

Business name:

Eric Fewster, Passive House Consultant

Business overview:

Eric Fewster is a Certified Passive House Consultant specializing in retrofit work in the UK. Using proven Passive House methodology as well as thermal bridging analysis, he can help homeowners plan exactly what energy efficiency measures to carry out in order to achieve specific energy or carbon reduction targets.

Eric can help you make logical decisions about what improvements to prioritize based on the cost-effectiveness of each one. He can also advise on how to actually go about the work.

Eric joined the SuperHomes network after renovating his own house in Manchester, which resulted in reductions of 69% and 60% for space heating demand and carbon emissions respectively. He subsequently trained to be a Passive House Consultant with the aim to help other people in similar situations to accurately analyze their own retrofit projects.

For more information, contact Eric using the contact form on his SuperHome page.

Common questions and answers for this SuperHome


How airtight did you manage to get your terrace house? Did you do an air test and if so what result did you get?+

I didn’t do a final air test, but had one done once most insulation and airtightness was done, and  the result was 7.85 m3/m2/hour (that is the UK method for measuring leakiness) which translates to about 9.3 air changes/hour (m3 of air compared to volume of house, which is the Passive House method). This was still leaky because there was a large leak from an open chimney flue and a few other places, so if I redid it, I reckon I’d be somewhere around 3-5 air changes – which isn’t enough. I now know you really need to be somewhere around 1.5 air changes an hour for the MVHR unit to operate efficiently. So my air tightness wouldn’t have been good enough, it needs a lot of attention to detail.

Which MVHR unit did you choose? +

Xpelair Xcell300. I wouldn’t chose it again, for various reasons. For example, the  fan speeds cut out once you reduce to its minimum, which is still too fast for my house volume. You need fully programmable fan speeds ideally as well as one that is efficient etc.

Does your wood burner have a sealed air inlet (i.e. draws air from outside airtight envelope)?+

No it draws air from inside the house, which works well as air comes in via ventilation system, so there doesn’t seem to be a problem in terms of O2 levels.

I want to fit internal wall insulation to our solid walled 1930s semi, would you have any general advice? +

I’d recommend doing an energy analysis on the house first and then fit the wall insulation work into a retrofit project that might include other measures while you’re at it. This is because wall insulation of external-facing walls will most likely be a major contributor of heat loss and carbon emissions, but it might not be the biggest factor. If space heating demand or carbon emissions are your main driver for wanting to do the work, then you need to be sure you’re targeting the right thing(s). Also depending what your goals are, if comfort is a big driver for you wanting to do this work, then airtightness and ventilation will be a major contribution to feeling comfortable, not insulation alone.

Also if you’re doing internal wall insulation, you really need to get the airtightness right on the internal face – any gaps will mean moisture can get through and cause interstitial condensation on the cold original wall surface leading to mould (e.g. from modeling and field tests, we know that a typical 1mm gap in air membrane that is 1m long can allow 360g of water to condense – this is with conditions of 20 deg C inside and 50% relative humidity, and 0 deg C outside with 80% relative humidity). So it really kind of links in to other parts of a retrofit and I’m not sure it should be done in isolation without airtightness/ventilation.

What was the product name of the gravel that you used in the crawl space?+

The gravel was called ‘MOT’ – don’t know what it stands for but you get it from builder merchants like Travis Perkins. I put down about 5cm depth all over the crawl space, which equated to about 4.5 metric tonnes! I don’t know exactly what type of infill it is, but it tends to soak up moisture a bit, so it helped to make a dry-ish base on which to stand and sort out my joists before putting the DPM down.

How did you feel the gravel combatted some of the humidity levels in the house? +

The humidity was sorted overnight after the plastic sheet went down, even with all the floorboards up and joists exposed. I know this because I’d get condensation on the windows every morning and the morning after there was none. It just showed that a lot of moisture was coming from evaporation from the ground. Also I know this because the underside of the original chipboard floor was covered in white mould except for the place where it went over the base of the hearth – here there was no mould. Again confirming that evaporation from ground was a big issue.

Contact this homeowner

Assessment types

SuperHomes Assessed

A home that has been visited and assessed by us and confirmed as reaching the SuperHome standard, which demonstrates a 60% carbon saving.

Homeowner Reported

Information has been provided by the homeowner about their home and energy use prior to the installation of measures and following their installation which demonstrates a carbon saving. This information has not been verified.

Remote Assessed

The homeowner has provided information on their home including what measures have been installed which has enables an assessor working on our behalf to assess their carbon savings. This home has not been visited to verify the measures installed.

Unassessed

This home has not been assessed, but the homeowner has reported what measures have been installed. It may be that this home is awaiting assessment.